Rwanda holds a special place in my heart and i jotted down some thoughts throughout my visit.

biggest surprise:

how safe it is here. like, Vancouver safe. you can walk around as a solo girl at night, and the only reason locals may try and approach you will be to practice their english: “hi how are you i’m fine”

you can leave your helmets on your scooter and go into the bar, and just when you think you’ve pushed your luck because you come outside and they’re gone, some friendly security guys run up and give you the helmets they’ve been keeping for you.

one time someone chased Christine down to give her the Coach purse and Tory Burch wallet that fell off her scooter.

if you go to Rwanda talk to someone like Christine who can help ease the culture shock and make you feel safe – I had SO many questions and she was amazing at helping me understand the complicated, yet simple, place that Rwanda is.

 

biggest culture shock:

Rwandans EVERYWHERE. sitting on the street. many dont have jobs or anything to do. in the countryside, kids just sit and chill on the side of the road watching the cars go by. i don’t know why but i was so taken aback to see a couple locals (who i know now were Claude and JP) just lounging in the hammock at Tommy’s front door when i first arrived.

i am aware the response here is “ya Kellie it’s Africa.” but let’s be real, in vancouver we are lucky if we see one black person. for me, it was a total culture shock to be a minority to the point that people do a double take when they see you, some kids have NEVER seen someone with the same skin tone or hair colour as you, people turn around and stare for an abnormally long time as you walk away.

craziest experience:

being treated like celebs at a soccer game in Byumba. i will never forget the excited looks on those kids faces when they saw us, waving with excitement as we drove by with the windows down. it was so so strange.

perma mind-boggler:

the genocide was 23 years ago. that’s not a different generation, that’s the SAME PEOPLE i am passing on the street. they killed up to 1 million people in 100 days. neighbours were killing neighbours, even husbands were killing wives. every river or ditch i saw, i saw it running red. bodies were PILED everywhere. i saw many people hobbling without legs or arms because they were chopped off with machetes. but yet the safety and generosity of people i encountered in that country were off the charts. i could never get that shift in behaviour from 23 years ago to now off my mind while i was there. like it really is a MIRACLE how they have recovered and rebuilt. i have some thoughts, but i never could figure it out.

something i didn’t expect:

seeing kids and families with with next to nothing and NOT feeling like bursting into tears. yes i feel sorry that their kids are playing in the dirt and they don’t have proper shoes and they don’t have food and water like every human deserves. of COURSE i feel sorry. i expected to come to Africa and see that level of poverty and just have my heart break.

and don’t get me wrong, there is plenty that us more privileged folk can do. but handing out $5 here or $10 there, even though it could buy dinner for their whole family, is a band aid solution. the real help will come from providing the tools and skills to help them learn and succeed for themselves. Christine’s friend Jen bought a Rwandan flag pin off a kid on the street. she said she won’t give out money, but she will almost always buy something they’re selling because it teaches them they need to provide a good or service that is of value to make money, not just beg for it. i loved that. i also love Jen in general ❤

even coming to Rwanda and spreading the word about how beautiful, safe and clean it is will help Rwandans – we are bringing in tourism dollars, helping the locals stay employed through moto rides, hospitality, buying bananas and chapatis off the street.

but back to my point about feeling sorry – there are people around us that are making no money or maybe $100/month, living in mud huts, or a room behind Tommy’s house. we look at them and it’s natural to feel sorry; like i felt uncomfortable around our paid house help Eric and Claude ALL THE TIME. why are we eating this dinner and not them? but i bet Kylie Jenner looks at people like me and feels sorry. because i live in a 600 sq ft apartment, i don’t have 10 cars or 10 thousand pairs of shoes or purses. i am staying in hostels or crashing with friends this entire trip, no 5-star resorts. sometimes i have arugula for lunch or nachos (k chips with cheese) for dinner. but does that make me less happy than Kylie Jenner? i GUARANTEE i am happier. i live within my means, just as Eric and Claude and all the people in the villages live within theirs. i’ve seen all smiles and no tears on the Rwandans’ faces since i’ve been here. it’s all relative and as a wise man once said, mo money mo problems.

a few other observations that stood out to me as a first timer to Rwanda/Africa:

– moto bikes. everywhere. the first thing i noticed coming out of the airport. in Uganda they ride 4 peeps to a moto with 0 helmets

– staring for an abormally long time. then they look back after you’ve passed. then they look back again.

– most working class Rwandans are very slowwww moving – you and 1 friend sit down at a restaurant after a slow greeting with the hostess. you say, can i please have a menu (because that’s not a given). she is happy to oblige, comes back 5 mins later with 1 menu. you say, can i please have 1 more menu (there are 2 of us). you get the gist. also, good luck ordering a sandwich with no mayo. they aren’t the most critical thinkers; Christine says if you walk into a restaurant with a bottle of wine, they will say it’s not allowed. then you rationalize with “but it is my anniversary” and they go, “okay.” they do what they have been taught and there’s not a lot of standing their ground.

– hygene problems – mix together a nationwide lack of soap, showers and deodorant, and you get some major BO. like everywhere. if you’re sitting on a bus you better pray for a window seat. plus Rwandans love their handshakes. bring hand sanitizer!!

– the roadside people watching is insane. ladies in bright patterned Kitenge material with baskets of intricately stacked fruit on their heads. like i have never seen 50 cucumbers arranged so meticulously. 5 year old kids carrying huge bundles of bamboo or grass on their heads. ladies with their babies snuggled up on their backs like a little kangaroo pouch. in Uganda, herds of cows or goats on the road. guys on bikes hitching a ride up the hill by holding onto the back of a semi truck. there is always something to see. road trip naps are not a thing.

– getting caught in the rain – rainy season in Rwanda is no joke. Christine and i got caught in a downpour with a double rainbow riding home on her scooter, and it was a magical moment i won’t forget.

– fell in love with most of our servers there. they are so sweet, saying “yes please” when you order. this is Isaac from Java House.

– i will miss singing and dancing to Waka Waka (time for Africa) by Sharika: Amu-ralah by Roberto, What if i go? by Mura Masa. Africans are so proud to be African and oh my god do they know how to dance!!

anywho. my peace leg is over and i am full throttle into play. not to get mushy but to me, peace was about experiencing things (gorillas, road trip with friends, double rainbow in Kigali, shark diving, Lion’s Head sunrise) that made me feel absolutely 100% happy and content and in the moment. at peace, i guess. inspired to live an epic life each and every chance i get. this leg was more than i could have dreamed of and my heart is full ❤

 

i discovered a new favourite pastime – SAFARIING!!

 

along with Yuhki and Ragner from Germany (Tommy’s friends’ friends), i went on an overnighter to Akagera National Park, which is on the eastern border of Rwanda right beside Tanzania. IT. WAS. THE. BEST.

 

you can hire a guide but we (and when i say we i mean Ragner) rented an SUV and drove ourselves. Akagera has a few dirt roads that you can follow, and the rest is a whole mixed bag of terrains – thick bush, grasslands, flat plains, hills. it would take about 5-6 hours to drive the length but we mostly stuck around the southern part. it’s not a traditional safari but they do have all of the Big Five animals (elephants, lions, rhino, hippo, buffalo) thanks to recent imports of lions and rhinos earlier this year.

 

30 seconds after entering the park i screamed. an ELEPHANT was like 2 metres from the path. you know, you see people’s safari pics and you’re like oh that’s cool. but being a stone’s throw away from a real live giant elephant is INSANE!!!

 

that wasn’t our only close elephant encounter. later that day, after a behind-the-scenes tour from a park guide named Innocent (very enthusiastic but VERY REPETITIVE AND POINTLESS) we went for another cruise through the bush. we passed a German family who was driving the wrong way down a one way path. they turned around because of elephants on the path. being the Millennials we are, we proceeded towards the elephants. round the bend and bam there is an elephant and her baby!!!! SO CUTE I WAS DYING but we weren’t sure how close we could get, because we are well aware that they could destroy us. those tusks are not messing around. the mom and baby backed into the bush and we crept along the road… only to be surprised with 6-7 more elephants around the next bush. Ragner steps on it and our hearts are PUMPING. first elephant spottings were a huge success. the next day some other guides told us we are CRAZY for being so close and are lucky we made it out alive!! words of wisdom that Innocent forgot to disclose apparently.

 

we made a fire and enjoyed our plain white bread (for 3 consecutive meals). we slept in a campsite that was surrounded by electrical fences so that we don’t get any late night visitors, the boys in the tent and me in the truck. still slightly terrified about sleeping in such close proximity to lions but getting out of my comfort zone is what peace play pash is all about! woke up to a stunning 5am sunrise over the Tanzania, the guys point out that the crazy thing about this view is there is likely not a human soul to be seen.

 

following sunrise and some more white bread (day 2, just keeps gettin better) we set off on my fave day.

 

we kicked things off by rounding a bend and running almost directly into an elephant blocking our path. Ragnar goes “HOLD MY COFFEE” and is pedal to the metal in reverse, while Yukhi is snapping photos and i get a maj case of the giggles because when else does this happen?!

 

the rest of the day was driving around (tailing a guide so we dont run into any more elephants) and spotting giraffes, buffalo, Pumbas (warthogs), monkeys, baboons and a ton of deer/gazelles/antelope of the plain. a bunch of hippos in the water and a herd of 12 elephants across the lake. it was a thrill like i’ve never felt before and i am seriously considering blowing the rest of my trip budge on safaris. there is nothing more fun.

 

pics are below (cred to Yukhi for sending his real camera shots)!!

 

quick activity log:

– went to Mille Collines (the actual Hotel Rwanda – watch the movie if you haven’t!) for a pool day. it started to downpour so naturally made a British friend named Daniel and got day drunk off pina coladas

– trivia night with delish pizza at Sole Luna. was a BIT much. ordered our orange juice 3 times. got 2nd place in trivia though, who knew?

– got caught in the rain on Christine’s scooter and drove home to the most majestic double rainbow. back at home the skies were sunny and raining to the right, and brooding storm clouds to the left. Rwanda is magic.

– suntanned on the driveway, schoolboys all gathered across the street giggling and trying to get a peep through the gate. this is what zoo animals feel like. Tommy goes “Kellie how many times do i have to tell ya, they got nothin else to do”. promptly moved inside.

– went on a walk with Eric to Remera. Eric helps with random errands like grocery shopping and fixing their coffee machines. he is the sweetest soul. he lives in a room at the back of the house with his friend Claude. he always stops by the porch when i’m on the hammock (aka every morning) to shyly say hello and chat. couple things i learned about Eric on our walk to Remera: he is 23, he grew up in a village where there were only 4 houses nearby. he speaks Kinyarwanda but also English, French, Swahili, and Turkish (he lived with a Turkish family for 8 months). the first time he saw a white person he was 8 years old. he says the reason kids are so excited to see us because we’re good luck. Eric wants to become a truck driver – he showed me the driving school where he will get his trucking license. when we stopped at a grocery store and i told him to pick out something he wanted, he chose a bar of soap.

– scooted with Tommy to Tally Cafe for banana bread (best in Kigali), cappuccino/African iced tea. peed in a hole in the ground.

– then scooted to Kimironko market, v smelly and dirty but literally EVERYTHING you could ever need, organized by section. fruits + veg, seeds, electronics, soaps, hardware supplies, fabrics for custom clothing. i got a shirt made that is fitted and thick and NOTHING like the photo we agreed upon. 7,000 RWF which is about 10 bucks. gave it to Eric to give to his sister.

– Oktoberfest-themed house party at Tommys’ friends. they go ALL out here for parties, and their houses are gorgeous. these guys hosted a wedding in their backyard a few months ago. hired 6 DJs to play throughout the night, live band, beer, cocktail bar (with Mars bars-infused vods), chapati “Rolex” food vendor, tiki torches and couches on the lawn. just a casz Saturday in Kigali.

– boutique hotel + restaurant Heaven for some fish tacos and a cute view.

i’ve been busy booking stuff for the remainer of my time in Kigali and my next 2 stops. STAY TUNED!! 🙂

smeagled away from Kigali for a couple days of r&r this week. the PINNACLE of my peace journey.

the east side of Rwanda is flat and grassy like a savanna and has Akagera Park, which is home to elephants, giraffes, baboons etc. the west side, bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo, is more mountainous, green, jungle-y. on this border is Lake Kivu, which has a mix of high end resorts and rural Rwandan villages, like the one we went to called Byumba.

Tommy and i took a 4-hour-turned-6-hour bus ride to a village on Lake Kivu called Gisenyi (renamed to Rubavu). i wanted to nap but the views were too freaking stunning. there are people EVERYWHERE carrying huge bowls of fruit or stacks of grass/bamboo on their heads, sitting staring at the cars passing by, working on their crops. some kids were playing slip and slide in a mud puddle. there is ALWAYS something to look at. i’m obsessed with the banana trees, they make everything look so tropical. every section of land along that road is farmed – carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, rice, tea, coffee, avocados, mangos, etc etc. they have not wasted ANY land – like unless it is a vertical rocky cliff, it has crops on it.

about 10k from our destination our driver pulled over and got out of the bus because the Tour du Rwanda bike race was coming up on that road. we got out and soon realized that we were more exciting to the kids in this village than waiting for the race; we were surrounded within a minute. the kids just stare, suss us out from head to toe, shyly smile and say “hi” back to us. one is usually brave enough to step up and say “what is your name. mine is (insert 12-syllable name that i cannot pronounce).” then the rest of the kids all giggle. i’ve been trying to pinpoint the kind of excitement that i’m seeing in these kids, and my best comparison is if you suddenly spot Leo Dicaprio (or your preferred celeb) and he makes direct eye contact and waves at you. it’s that level of giddiness.

Tommy and i know we could be waiting for the bikers to pass forever so we eventually start walking, passing many kids who say: “good morning!” “how are you i’m fine” “give me money” and sometimes “i am hungry”. they are not begging, these are the words they’ve been taught. we’re about 30 mins and 4 blistered feet in when the bikers have passed and our bus is back on the move; it pulls over on the side of the road to pick us up again. perks of being the only white people in a 100 km radius, your bus will have no trouble spotting you! the passengers are all excited to see us and get up so we can have our original seats back. so so nice.

in Gisenyi we stayed at Hakuna Matata lodge on Lake Kivu, at a discount thanks to manager Pascal – THIS PLACE IS HEAVEN. everyone must go here!!! easily the most peaceful place i’ve ever been – palm trees, tropical birds (my faves are the yellow one and the black one with a red beak and a mullet), large clean modern rooms with a king sized bed and mosquito net that doesnt suffocate your face when you sleep (a true luxury), unobstructed views of the immaculate gardens and the lake. i was sitting on the balcony looking out at the lake and the only sounds i heard were soft waves against the shore, and the wind beneath the birds’ wings as they flew by. 12/10 bliss.

there are often fishing boats on the lake, including ~10 longboats that go out when it gets dark and stay out till 8am fishing with their lanterns. across the lake is Congo which i am obsessively intrigued by because it is a wild wild jungle – not quite Rwanda-safe let’s just say that. the Congo border is like 100m from a cute/delish cafe we went to 3 times, Calafia (amazing smoothies, salads and sandwiches).

Tommy and i walk through the village along the lake and get caught in a downpour as per usz, i have some liquor labelled “vodka” which i’m pretty sure was gin. being tipsy in Rwanda is such a trip because you get to be your friendliest self and everyone is so happy to say “hi how are you i’m fine” back.

^^ spreading some Canadian love with some new pins

we went to Palm Beach restaurant for a 2 hour wait for dinner. go there for the ambience, not the prompt service. we were in bed by a glorious 9pm.

next day we are treated with fresh fruit, omelettes & crepes for breaky, then head down to get our tan on (or burn on, for a sunscreen-less Tommay) and go swimming just off the lawn. i almost drown from loling at his “butt paddle” swim which consists of him swimming with his booty popped up above water. i have to look away so i can calm down the lols. he also demonstrates the sidestroke, which didn’t quiiite make the olympics. it was delightful except i found out when i got back that swimming in Kivu is like a 99% guarantee that you’ll get a parasite, which you have to take a pill for in 3 months. a detail Tommy conveniently withheld from me. i’m fine! everything’s fine!

Tommy has to go back to coach swimming to we do a quick Gossland swap and Christine joins me for more (actual) vodka along the lake, carbonara for dinner, and amazing theraputic life conversations. she is the best and has been such a key part of my peace here.

the next day we read on the lawn and do a quick workout followed by another parasite-y but refreshing swim. moto to Calafia and then are frantically ushered onto a bus on its way out; which means we are stuck with the smelliest stuffiest backrow seats. Rwandans don’t smell what we smell and get cold in the wind. we BEG for people to open their windows, Christine tells them the wind is good for the woman with a baby in front of us; she tells them she would know, she has 4 babies lol. they were all bundling up at any tinge of wind. eventually they give in and give us a window seat near the front – persistence pays off, folks!

back to Kigali for some weekend nightlife feelin’ refreshed, relaxed and really quite thrilled that i finally have my African base tan!

 

 

okay this day was crazy.

 

we drove up to Rwanda’s Northern Province to check out a village that one of Christine and Tommy’s coffee friends is helping out via the Manzi Foundation. the drive was SO beautiful with lush hills and valleys stretching forever, banana trees, tea fields, little huts. throughout the entire 2 hour drive, people were walking along the highway with giant stacks of grass or produce on their heads, or little babies wrapped up in a cocoon on their backs, or kids walking their cow or goat. (things you don’t see in Vancouver: kids taking their cow for a walk at the side of a highway).

 

as we got further from the city, people became more and more excited to see us mzungus (white people). my new fave hobby is waving and saying “hi!” to Rwandans in their villages and seeing their faces light up. like literally beaming in excitement to see us. one girl’s eyes almost popped out of her head as she did a double take. the only one who’s ever been that excited to see me before is Barney.

 

they have learned a few English phrases including “good morning!” so they yell that at all hours of the day and night, it is the best lololol. another one of their go-tos is “i’m fine!” which is also v adorable.

 

we arrived at the village Byumba and everyone just SWARMED around us. i had brought little Canada flag pins to give out and they went nuts. like you’d think we were giving out gold. one of the men was more than happy to step up as our helper, and distributed the pins so we could have some breathing room.

 

the kids are so funny. some like photos, many will run away when they see a phone out. they are SO giddy/kind of bashful when you smile and wave at them. sometimes they look behind them like “is she really waving at ME?” they follow you everywhere you go. everywhere. but they are not begging, not getting up in our grill (although one did pet Tommy’s back) and they are just curious and adorable.

^^ this was my fave little guy. he liked his picture taken, was throwing out sass for the camera, and followed me everywhere. we drove a few mins away and when we were leaving, i looked out the window and saw that he had followed us there from his village. i might just go Angelina Jolie over here.

 

Tommy and Christine’s friend had said we should pop by a soccer game in the community, so we moseyed on over after spending some time in the village. what we didn’t know was the teams had been waiting for us to begin and we were some sort of special guests because of Tommy and Christine’s association with the Manzi foundation.

 

when we got there everyone went NUTS. like 300 Rwandan children ran over to us and were staring in awe. i am guessing they don’t come across white people too often.

 

along with a Rwandan police officer and a few members of government and others from the foundation, we were escorted to the end of the field where they had put chairs out for us. apparently we had arrived, so the game could begin (SO bizarre)

 

we were brought out onto the field to shake the players’ hands to kick things off. during the game kids were PACKED around the field but so many of them were just locked on us sitting on our chairs. i realized this is how Kim Kardashian must feel. except i am even less worthy.

 

at halftime everyone gathered around our chairs and some people made speeches. at one point they asked us to stand up and give a wave, but motioning me to stand up as well was certainly completely unnec. again, NOT WORTHY. Christine whispers to me “Kellie i had no idea this was happening” and we both get the giggles because this is just so so so bizarre.

 

she had brought waters for the players and Fantas (basically a delicacy here in Rwanda) for as many people as possible. it was weird, some of the kids she offered them to would just run away and wouldn’t even take the drinks. maybe they’re just scared at us because we look so funny (and are not worthy).

 

the ride home was glorious and peaceful. our driver was playing some Lion King classical inspirational music as we drove past the tea fields as the sun was setting, and i shouted “good morning!” at the kids along the road and in the field, and gave thumbs up to peeps on their bikes. it was one of those magical moments that you would only dream of getting out of the “peace” leg of your trip.

 

and this is only my third day in Africa – have a feeling there’s more of that to come! ❤

 

i’ve been in Rwanda for 3 days and feel like i’ve already made memories to fulfill my entire trip. this country is crazy, hectic, stunning, heartwarming and inspiring. my heart is full.

 

culture shock

everything is different here. the streets are going nuts with moto taxis. there are tiny vibrant run-down shops and the streets are paved and then cobblestone and then dusty reddish dirt. there are tropical palm trees everywhere but it’s not like any tropical place i’ve been. there are clay huts but also beautiful gated houses with perfectly manicured gardens lining the streets. i am the minorest minority.

when i arrived at Tommy’s house his houseboy Claude and his friend Eric are chillin on the front porch. they are paid 60,000 Rwandan Francs (about $90 cad) per month to oversee the house and help out with maintenance/security as well as errands like grocery shopping. they live in a room behind the house and are always here. they are happy and sweet and friendly and this livelihood is more than they made at the village they came from, which was $0. they also have a darling housecleaner named Cecille who comes in every day. it is SO weird and morally conflicting and uncomfortable but it took only a day before i realized this is the way it is here, they are happy, and i feel safe having them here.

 

 

Rwandans are EVERYWHERE. they are constantly walking the streets, staring at you, carrying bags or produce on their heads. sitting on sidewalks doing nothing. i’m not sure a lot of them have anywhere to go, or at least not anything in a hurry.

they are freakishly nice. like, it’s bizarre how nice they are. they have invited me into their home for dinner, are so so so happy that we are here enjoying their country. there is 0 concern that they will steal anything or harm us. this confidence is something i learned from Christine, who has been living in Kigali for two years. we were walking home in the dark (sun goes down at 6:15 here and most streets are pitch black). 3 boys in their late teens were advancing behind us – if i was by myself i would have been l o s i n g it but Christine turned to them and said “hello!” and they flashed huge smiles and said “hi!” giggled and walked away. they just want to say hi and maybe they don’t see girls with white skin and blonde hair that often.

Rwandans are insanely trustworthy. Christine and Tommy have both lost things (from a pen to a Tory Burch wallet) that were eagerly returned to them later by a local who went out of their way to do so. last night we left our helmets on Christine’s scooter to go to a bar, Inema Arts Center, came out and they were gone. just as we were cursing ourselves for leaving them, a security guy came running up with the helmets. they had hid them for us just to keep them safe.

 

the heart

the fact that Rwandans are so nice and trusting is nothing short of a miracle considering their beyond tragic history. up to 1 million people were murdered during 100 days during the 1994 genocide. that was during my lifetime as well as the lifetimes of most people i pass on the street here. it was unthinkably tragic and devastating. i’ll probably post more on this later, but the way that they have rebuilt is absolutely astonishing. 23 years later Kigali is now the cleanest city in Africa, and one of the safest. i have not talked to one local that was rude to me or anything short of friendly. of course you feel reminders of the genocide EVERYWHERE, but the city has rebuilt itself and filled its people with hope and positivity in an INCREDIBLY short time.

my first lunch here i was telling our server, Sam, how beautiful i think it is here. he was so happy to hear, but said it hasn’t always been beautiful. Sam was born in 1994 two months after the genocide. i teared up when he said, “We have seen miracles happen here.” it’s so true.

 

 

 

my Kinyarwanda vocab:

chapati = 20 cent crepe-type street food that we got from a man making them down the street. a cheap and delish dinner.

mzungu = a white person

murakoze = thank you

mwara mutze = good morning

amakuru = how are you